“We’ve seen an increase in luxury denim the last couple of seasons, with brands placing an emphasis on the fabrication to offer strong and detailed design work across all categories,” she adds.
The prices of those designer items have reflected this demand. A Miu Miu dark denim jacket dripping in crystals, for example, can be yours for an eye-watering US$5,400.
Ukrainian designer Ksenia Schnaider, who has championed bold denim designs since she launched her eponymous label in 2011, has also seen a stark change in consumer appetite.
“In the last few years, I’ve seen denim finally move from everyday wear to fashion statement status,” she says. “It’s not boring any more.”
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The early 2000s were marked by aged denim skirts riding scandalously low on the waist and boot cut trousers worn with belly-baring tank tops.
Troubled times of late – as well as several seasons spent chasing a pristine, minimalist look – have no doubt fuelled nostalgia and demand for this comforting, oftentimes chaotic, slice of fashion.
“I now perceive my designs as escapism from reality, which is why I also want to bring in brighter colours and fun into the new collections,” she says. “The pieces are meant to transport the wearer to a place of happiness and joy, even if only for a moment.”
As people grapple with new definitions of formality post-pandemic, jeans are crossing the boundary between the casual and formal. Just as the sneaker shoe is now welcome in places with stricter dress codes – thanks to the embrace of streetwear by designer houses – denim is undergoing a metamorphosis of its own.Naza Yousefi, the London-based designer behind contemporary label Yuzefi, has toyed with the fabric before but made it a focal point in her latest collection, shown during London Fashion Week.
“I love denim because, with all the possible cuts, washes and treatments, there is really no limit to the new ways it can be explored, making it a perfect material for designers to play with,” Yousefi says.
This latest season, the brand explored a curved silhouette with its take on barrel-leg jeans. “I wanted there to be a sense of elevated ease, making them suitable for the everyday but also special occasions.”
Another name to note is LVMH Prize-winning designer Priya Ahluwalia, who considered denim’s role in the stage looks of artists for her autumn 2023 collection.
The Indian-Nigerian designer is known for using vintage and deadstock – unsold inventory that has been lying in storage – materials in innovative ways when crafting her ’90s-inspired pieces, with recent collections injecting denim with prints and repeat logos.“This show, we had denim pieces inspired by the music I have listened to my whole life; a fishtail dress was inspired by [singer] Lauryn Hill and a hooded mini dress was designed after watching ’90s R&B videos,” Ahluwalia adds.
At Balmain, Olivier Rousteing’s crossover with Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture maison last July featured a caped denim gown with metres-high feathers bursting from the bustier, prompting audiences to see the blue jean in a powerful new way.
“Rather than a specific style that’s trending, brands are staying true to their DNA while incorporating denim within their collections in their own way,” says Browns’ Tenser.
She points to Mugler, which champions ultra-sexy Y2K contrast denim; Margiela’s visually striking sculptural styles, which include slashed pieces and cut-out pockets; Celine’s bourgeois take on timeless silhouettes; and Alaïa’s dramatic ruffled flair.“Every house is putting their own stamp on this wardrobe classic,” she says.
