First impression:
Maggiano’s exterior, which resembles an Italian Villa with wrought iron balconies and tile roof, promises an experience beyond a typical chain restaurant, and it delivers. This is just what South Floridians need now – a value. Chef Cesar Jimenez is like your Italian grandma producing large portions of good food at a reasonable price.
Ambience:
The main dining room, with its soaring ceilings, black and white photographs and red-and- white checked tablecloths, is casual and family friendly. When the noise level is low, you can hear the pianist in the bar play everything from Sinatra to Jimmy Buffett.
Starters:
One of the highlights of the meal was the four cheese ravioli with pesto Alfredo and marinara ($9.50). This could have been way too rich, but the cheese taste was subtle and so was the sauce, with just the right amount of basil flavor in a light Alfredo. If we ordered it again, we would ask for more pesto Alfredo sauce and to skip the marinara. The calamari fritte with marinara sauce ($9.50 half/$13.25 full) was lightly battered and tasted even better the next day.
Entree excellence:
We strongly suggest one of Maggiano’s specialties such as lobster fettuccine ($16.50 half/$22.50 full) from San Francisco’s North End, which is more refined than typical southern Italian fare. Lobster was liberally sprinkled through the dish with smoked ham, sugar snap peas in a slightly salty lobster cream sauce. Another house specialty, Beef Braciole ($14.95 half/$18.95 full) from Baltimore’s Little Italy-beef cutlets stuffed and rolled with ground beef, asiago Cheese, focaccia and Italian vegetables-was also very good. It is cooked in a red wine tomato sauce and served with flat noodle pasta. My dining companion, who loves eggplant parmesan ($12.95), gave it high marks.
Sweet:
Desserts failed to delight. The creme brulee ($7.50) didn’t pass the classic test. It wasn’t eggy enough and the sugar crust was too thin. My chocoholic friend gave thumbs down on the much heralded zuccotto cake ($7.50), chocolate cake layered with Sambuca chocolate mousse and iced with chocolate frosting. It was enough to feed four but lacked the expected richness except for the icing. Instead, try the classically made cappuccino ($3.75) and espresso ($2.75), which are served with a complimentary snifter of Sambuca.
Service:
Our server was pleasant without being invasive and was on top of things except for failing to fill water glasses.
Insider tip:
The restaurant is less crowded and therefore less noisy mid-week. Order half portions and you will still have leftovers to take home. Try the Arancio merlot from Sicily ($7).
Contact dining correspondent Charlyne V. Schaub at
.
