Ever since last November’s Table Talk tribute to the Best Burger in Broward County, I’ve been on the search for the winner in Palm Beach County.
Using the same standards that led to Scalley’s as producer of the best burger in Broward County, I lifted many of that most American of sandwiches into my mouth, looking for the proper roll, its toastiness, the quality of the tomato, lettuce, onion and, of course, the nature of the meat.
During those tastings, I found my favorite location: Outside on the deck of Highland Beach’s Holiday Inn where I faced the ocean and dug into a burger made a few feet away on a grill by the pool.
Second best — but winner of the indoor competition — was the Boynton Beach Mall’s Ruby Tuesday.
“Eight ounces of delicious 100% choice beef” is promised by the menu and delicious it most certainly is, cooked to order, and with a wonderful variety of silly names for add-on toppings. They include Julius Cheezer; Minnesota Fats (with sour cream added to the Cheeze); and Ellery Queen, a real mystery because it only means “Plenty of Sauteed Onions” and is priced at $4.69, which is what I paid for the simple Western Burger with lettuce, tomato and onion.
It was served on a slightly toasted whole-wheat bun, which was OK and had more substance than the usual lighter-than-air variety. An English muffin can be used on request.
The burger at Scarlett O’Hara’s (335 East Linton Blvd.) was a bargain at $3.55. The “All-American Hamburger” was made with fresh, ground-daily beef and served on a mediocre bun with fries, tomato slice, lettuce and a pickle spear. The fries were terrific, thick wedges and very hot, more impressive than the burger.
At Palm Beach’s Chuck and Harold (207 Royal Poinciana Way) “The Burger” was $5.75 and came with an undersized, under-age tomato slice, some sweet onion and an ordinary roll with a very few sesame seeds, and fries. The headliner was the beef, properly chargrilled but delivered very much on the raw side of medium rare.
The reborn Bridge in Delray Beach (840 E. Atlantic Avenue) serves a good burger, a $6.95 classic with tomato and sweet onion and twice-cooked potatoes, while the new Benvenuto in Boynton Beach (1730 N. Federal Highway) offers at $7.75 an “All American Hamburger” on their dinner menu. And it’s a beaut, a half-pound of ground chuck cooked to order, with a thick slice of real tomato and an equally thick slice of Bermuda onion.
But the winner of the sweepstakes — at least this round — is found in a far more modest setting.
Sunny Gourmet is the name and Sunny Gourmet is most certainly an appropriate name for the operation of Ruth Montaltos, who has put together a beautiful bistro with an excellent variety of pies, cakes and take-out goodies for sale.
What’s not available for take-out are the breads and rolls that are used in the sandwiches, quite properly called “Significant Sandwiches!” on the small menu. The $4.95 honey-baked ham and Swiss cheese on their own rye bread is sensational. So, too, is the mouth-bender made with turkey breast, the chicken salad laced with dill, the blackboard special quiche of the day and the omelet of the day.
Now what about that burger? It was delivered perfectly grilled, medium rare as ordered, and had all the flavor of the great hamburgers I have clamped down on over the years. The roll was terrific, whole wheat and perfectly toasted, with the right degree of crispness around the edges. The slice of tomato was the real thing, the Bermuda onion wonderful and the dill spear a perfect complement. It’s called the Cross Creek Burger, in honor of the mall, I guess, although it’s good enough to make it into Majorie Kinnan Rawlings’ Cross Creek Cookbook.
SUNNY GOURMET
Cross Creek Center
1313 W. Boynton Beach Blvd.
Boynton Beach
369-8844
Cost: inexpensive to moderate
Credit cards: MC, V
Continental breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday
