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It’s hard to imagine Banko Cantina as its former incarnation, the historic American National Bank.
After a lengthy renovation, the 13,000 square-foot restaurant in downtown West Palm Beach has taken on a new identity. The ambitious project in the landmark 1921 building features three levels, with a rooftop bar offering city views and a breath of fresh air. The current heat wave has put a damper on the space and plans are to reopen the roof by the end of the month when things cool off. In the meantime, the rooftop and second floor are designated for special events and private parties.
The only feature reminiscent of a bank is the sky-high ceiling. Constellations of Moravian-style stars and punched tin lights cast a warm glow above the 130-seat main dining room. Gorgeous blue and white geometric ceramic tiles fill the oversized bar space, where multiple large screens keep patrons captivated, along with an impressive selection of over 30 tequilas. Upcycled wood from renovations serve as tabletops. And frescos, which combine street, tattoo and Día de los Muertos art influences by Chicago muralist David Bozic, adorn the walls and columns.
The Northern Mexican-style cooking is an homage to owner Sam Sanchez’ childhood. Sanchez grew up in Nuevo Leon, Mexico, a region known for its ranching industry and wood-fired cooking. At Banko Cantina, this translates to grilled, smoky flavors. Sanchez is new to South Florida’s restaurant scene, but not to the hospitality industry. His father and uncle were also in the restaurant business in Mexico and Chicago. While working for both of them, he was taught at a young age that hard work and dedication are keys to success. Sanchez and his partners also own John Barleycorn, Moe’s Cantina and Old Crow Smokehouse in Chicago and Huntington Beach, California.
As we peruse the margarita menu, a basket of warm, salty, limey tortilla chips appear. I get not wanting to cut into salsa sales, but serving chips without salsa is like serving bread without butter. The salsa sampler ($4) is an assortment of mango, grilled and roasted tomato, tomatillo, habanero and chimichurri condiments. They were distinctly different in flavor, but visually similar and and confusing. A labeled placemat or some other form of ID would have been nice.
Guacamole ($11) gets a spicy yet manageable kick from serrano peppers. It’s a chunkier version with cilantro, tomatoes and a bit too much onion for my taste. I prefer the avocado to be the hero of the dish. Ceviche ($14), “made with local and wild fish and shrimp,” presented itself beautifully with bright, colorful splatters of mango and chamoy purees. Too bad the evening’s wahoo never made it to the recipe, and I couldn’t get past the chemical taste of the shrimp to savor the marinade. Elotes ($5) wins the prize for best small dish for its charred corn, cream, cotija cheese, chilies and lime served off the cob – simply delicious. Quesadillas ($12) with queso chihuahua can be super-sized with chicken, steak or veggies at a $2 upcharge. The same goes for loaded nachos ($12). Queso Fundido ($11) takes a meaty turn with chorizo and poblano peppers.
Mesquite grilled skewers hang from designated elevated hooks at the table. A chewy Carne Asada ($14) could have used thinner cuts. The skirt steak was seasoned well and tasty, but the meat put up a fight. Skewered shrimp, chicken and vegetables ($10-$12) are also options. Although listed as a “Traditional Plate,” the paella ($24) looked and tasted more like a wet gumbo with its brownish-red sauce. If there was any saffron in the dish, it was lost amongst the shrimp, mussels, clams, andouille sausage and overcooked chicken. More classic offerings were oven-roasted enchiladas ($16), served with tomatillo salsa, chihuahua cheese, Spanish rice and beans; chicken, steak or shrimp fajitas ($18) with all the fixings and a grilled banana leaf-wrapped catch of the day (mp).
Eight varieties make up the au courant taco ($14-$18) menu, filling charred flour tortillas with shrimp, pork, chicken, vegetables, beef, fish and lobster. I’m not sure why the cumbersome tails are left on the meat of the Tacos Langosta ($16). Maybe to give the dish more volume? Pickled red onion made the plate, but there was no sign of slaw or microgreens, which left the two small tortillas looking rather sparse in the serving pan.
A fragrant swirl of cinnamon wasn’t enough to win us over with a stack of undercooked churros ($8). Despite the accompanying vanilla ice cream, chocolate and caramel sauces, it’s hard to get past the raw dough. Pan de Elote ($10), a cold sweet, moist, custardy Mexican corn bread, could have soared to new heights had it been flashed in a hot oven for a minute and served warm with the vanilla ice cream.
Although it was still early for a Friday night, the lights went down and the DJ’s volume went up mid-meal. Save this for the club kids later or take it to the rooftop. Our server was on top of things, but unfortunately she didn’t have the goods to deliver. In all fairness, I make it a point never to review a restaurant after opening, giving them ample time to work out any kinks. But when I visited Banko Cantina just after it opened in May I had a completely different, positive experience. Maybe they’ve had some staff turnover in the kitchen? Hopefully they figure it out and things fall back into place before season kicks in.
Banko Cantina
114 S. Olive Ave., West Palm Beach
561-355-1399, bankocantina.com
Cuisine: Northern Mexican
Cost: Moderate
Hours: Dinner seven days, Saturday & Sunday brunch
Reservations: Accepted
Credit cards: All major
Bar: Full
Sound level: Conversational, loud when full
Outside smoking: Available
Wheelchair accessible: Yes
Parking: Limited street, neighboring paid lots and city garages
Kids: Highchairs & booster seats. No specified menu.
